What renovation program at the harbor?
There are so many things we need to prep within 1 month before we leave our berth.
And it's either aesthetic: cleaning up and polishing the boat inside out, or mechanic: a lot of fixing, upgrading and replacing broken elements.
Here is what we did and how much it did approximately cost:
Aesthetic
Clean-up:
We cleaned up the boat from the ground up. Starting inside, all wood panels, all rooms, bathrooms, all equipments like the oven, stove and microwave and of course under all the hatches.
And there are many!
We also cleaned up the trash bin.
I used a combination of wet wipes (I know it's not eco-friendly but it is so efficient), black soap and CIF cream.
Removing stickers:
This boat is covered with Beneteau stickers and other broker stickers.
I decided to remove what was faded.
We first tried with the hair dryer, melting the glue, and using a plastic card to scrape it off. But it took forever.
I then changed to using the scraper and it worked wonders.
This combined with denatured alcohol was the winning team.
A scraper will cost you 2 euros. Then use Acetone to remove the sticky part of the sticker. Acetone costs 5 euros approx. 
Removing oxydation:
The boom and all the railings were a bit oxydized.
The cleaning stone costs 10 euros.
Varnishing:
I have sanded all the wooding railings on the boat.
It takes a lot of time, which is fine.
The only issue is that there have been very few sunny days without rain so far.
So as soon as the sun is showing up, I'm outside sanding.
We put 2 layers of wood varnish. It costs around 40 euros.
I have sanded all the wooding railings on the boat.
It takes a lot of time, which is fine.
The only issue is that there have been very few sunny days without rain so far.
So as soon as the sun is showing up, I'm outside sanding.
We put 2 layers of wood varnish. It costs around 40 euros.
The first one is mixed with 10% of white spirit, so that it penetrates better the wood.
The second one is pure wood varnish, to coat and protect the wood.
The second one is pure wood varnish, to coat and protect the wood.
We did not have the time during dry docking, so I'm putting masking tape, sanding and painting from the dinghy.
Cleaning the dinghy:
The dinghy hasn't been used for a while. It rained on it and algae started forming inside.
The dinghy hasn't been used for a while. It rained on it and algae started forming inside.
Sanding:
We will be sanding the teak on the deck before painting and adding a protection layer.
Before that, we'll have to remove the excess joints in between the teak.
We will be sanding the teak on the deck before painting and adding a protection layer.
Before that, we'll have to remove the excess joints in between the teak.
Polishing:
We did put gelcoat on the hull when we were on dry dock, but we didn't sand and polish before the boat's launch.
We have to do it at the harbor from the dinghy.
We bought a polisher/sander on Amazon. It costs 79 euros approximately. Plus, we bought a set of extension pads. Costs about 10 euros for a set.
We will also use this to polish the plastic part of the boat.
Fixing the porthole frame:
That's a hard one... you have to buy the exact frame back from Beneteau, which we didn't want to do.
So I just covered up the cracks with a sheet of PU...
We did put gelcoat on the hull when we were on dry dock, but we didn't sand and polish before the boat's launch.
We have to do it at the harbor from the dinghy.
We bought a polisher/sander on Amazon. It costs 79 euros approximately. Plus, we bought a set of extension pads. Costs about 10 euros for a set.
We will also use this to polish the plastic part of the boat.
Fixing the porthole frame:
That's a hard one... you have to buy the exact frame back from Beneteau, which we didn't want to do.
So I just covered up the cracks with a sheet of PU...
The sheet of PU sticker costs 3 euros or so on Temu.
Here how it looks after I covered up the cracked plastic:
This can be improved by sticking the PU sheet with neoprene glue instead of just using the sticky part of that PU sticker.
Painting the teak:
This is where a little bit of research prior to buying the saturator would have been good!
This job turned out to be a nightmare!
Why?
We didn't get the light natural color of the teak as we wanted.
Instead we got the exact same dark coloring as before.
That's the original state of the cockpit teak vs after-sanding:
We wanted to keep the same color as after-the-sanding.
The shipchandler advised us a product that was teak and other woods, and supposedly colorless.
The Owatrol saturator. But it seems better to use a saturator that is TEAK only rather than all wood.
Teak has tannin so it can go darker when saturators are added on top.
It did cost 70 euros but you can find it cheaper online! So order online first... Not like us.
It did cost 70 euros but you can find it cheaper online! So order online first... Not like us.
So we ended up with this brown shade, I was told it would be clearer as it dries but it didn't:
I ended up re-sanding everything back the next day.
The problem is that my teak is old so I don't have much thickness left.
So I can't sand much.
What I tried to do instead was to whiten it.
I used hydrogen peroxide, it costs 10 euros (more aggresive) and oxalic acid it also costs 10 euros approx.
You sand with a 120 grain sanding paper to open up the pores.
You put either product, leave it for 10 mn to whiten the wood.
Then you rinse.
Then you dilute baking soda (costs 10 euros) into water and use it to wash the wood in order to neutralize the acid or the hyrdrogen peroxyde.
Then you rinse abundantly again.
I probably didn't leave it long enough, it 's still dark, but still better than before, I might give it another day of whitening.
You put either product, leave it for 10 mn to whiten the wood.
Then you rinse.
Then you dilute baking soda (costs 10 euros) into water and use it to wash the wood in order to neutralize the acid or the hyrdrogen peroxyde.
Then you rinse abundantly again.
I probably didn't leave it long enough, it 's still dark, but still better than before, I might give it another day of whitening.
It leaves your teak a bit darker, but not as dark as with the other "colorless" Owatrol sealer.
That's the final result below, it looks darker in the photo than it is in the flesh!
Fixing and repairing
Porthole leakage:
The portholes in the kitchen and above our heads in the bedroom are leaking.
Nico is filling up the gaps on the outside of the portholes with Sikaflex 291i. Hopefully this works!
Sikaflex costs 9 euros.
So far no more leaks those last few days, and it was raining both days.
The only leak left is in the kitchen, through the lights... and we have no clue where this comes from.
Cracked ceramic porthole windows:
We might not change it, it is very frequent in old boats. However, Nico is getting quotations to see if worth it. It is and eye sore so probably we might end up changing them.
The cheapest so far seems to be 44 euros just for the window.
There are 11 portholes in total, not sure if we replace them all.
440 Euros in total. We used this company, they do have the reference of the portholes of our boat, so no need to send any actual samples: Plastiquesdelestuaire.com
Heater:
We currently have bulky external heaters. More fitted for an apartment than a boat.
There is one in the bedroom and one in the saloon and nothing in the bathrooms.
Nico wants to install a central heating system in the boat that is not electric but works from the gazoline of the engine. The heater costs 124 euros.
But what is expensive is all the extra spare parts for the installation. around 142 euros.
LED lights:
All lights are now halogen lighting, which is not energy friendly. We have like 14 spotlights to change.
We ordered a bit north of 50 euros of LED lights in different warmth and power.
After this maintenance work, the mainsail is pulling out nicely.
However he found out some of the rivets are missing, so we need to buy a rivet gun and some stainless steel rivets to fix it.
Shower heads:
They don't work well after so many years, because of dirt or limestone. Even the metal part is scratched.
This costs a bit more than 10 euros per showerhead. We bought on Amazon.
Same issue with the tap, we have to replace the nozzle. Costs nothing, maybe 2 euros for a set of 4 pcs.
Fixing and repairing
Bow thruster:
It doesn't work and needs repair. Nico had to remove the current contactor to check the model and find a new one.
It costs 400 euros. Ouch. Nico found one that could work at 285 eur.
It doesn't work and needs repair. Nico had to remove the current contactor to check the model and find a new one.
It costs 400 euros. Ouch. Nico found one that could work at 285 eur.
Bilge pump:
The bilge pump doesn't seem to work, Nico removed it and found out a piece of wood was clogging it.
He will buy screener to avoid this happening again.
The bilge pump doesn't seem to work, Nico removed it and found out a piece of wood was clogging it.
He will buy screener to avoid this happening again.
Porthole leakage:
The portholes in the kitchen and above our heads in the bedroom are leaking.
Nico is filling up the gaps on the outside of the portholes with Sikaflex 291i. Hopefully this works!
Sikaflex costs 9 euros.
So far no more leaks those last few days, and it was raining both days.
The only leak left is in the kitchen, through the lights... and we have no clue where this comes from.
Cracked ceramic porthole windows:
We might not change it, it is very frequent in old boats. However, Nico is getting quotations to see if worth it. It is and eye sore so probably we might end up changing them.
The cheapest so far seems to be 44 euros just for the window.
There are 11 portholes in total, not sure if we replace them all.
440 Euros in total. We used this company, they do have the reference of the portholes of our boat, so no need to send any actual samples: Plastiquesdelestuaire.com
Look at this awesome result! I had to open the porthole otherwise you wouldn't see there is an actual "glass" there.
Heater:
We currently have bulky external heaters. More fitted for an apartment than a boat.
There is one in the bedroom and one in the saloon and nothing in the bathrooms.
Nico wants to install a central heating system in the boat that is not electric but works from the gazoline of the engine. The heater costs 124 euros.
But what is expensive is all the extra spare parts for the installation. around 142 euros.
He would also need another exhaust hull fitting to make his heater, and it costs 134 euros.
Total is approximately 400 euros. Hard to keep track of the spending with all the separate purchases!
Total is approximately 400 euros. Hard to keep track of the spending with all the separate purchases!
Wastewater tank:
At the harbor or in some of the mooring, you cannot do your little business on your boat without having a wastewater tank.
We only have one chemical toilet. Which is a no go for me.
Nico will install a full system.
And it costed us a total of 1073 euros.
At the harbor or in some of the mooring, you cannot do your little business on your boat without having a wastewater tank.
We only have one chemical toilet. Which is a no go for me.
Nico will install a full system.
And it costed us a total of 1073 euros.
He is putting it in the engine compartment. And it's an electric system that will only be linked to our master cabin's toilets.
LED lights:
All lights are now halogen lighting, which is not energy friendly. We have like 14 spotlights to change.
We ordered a bit north of 50 euros of LED lights in different warmth and power.
Main Sail:
The main sail has a harder time releasing although we have an electric winch. That's a big issue Nico is addressing. He fears having to de-rig the mast.
He has removed the panel, changed the halyard and cleaned around.
The main sail has a harder time releasing although we have an electric winch. That's a big issue Nico is addressing. He fears having to de-rig the mast.
He has removed the panel, changed the halyard and cleaned around.
Some of the bearings and pulley need to be changed. It's totally worn out.
The bearings, 80 of them costed 70 euros. The pulleys 55 euros.
After this maintenance work, the mainsail is pulling out nicely.
However he found out some of the rivets are missing, so we need to buy a rivet gun and some stainless steel rivets to fix it.
Halyard pulleys: $$$
All the pulleys seem to be rusty, Nico and his dad did put so degreasing spray on all of them to make them like new.
All the pulleys seem to be rusty, Nico and his dad did put so degreasing spray on all of them to make them like new.
Shower heads:
They don't work well after so many years, because of dirt or limestone. Even the metal part is scratched.
This costs a bit more than 10 euros per showerhead. We bought on Amazon.
Same issue with the tap, we have to replace the nozzle. Costs nothing, maybe 2 euros for a set of 4 pcs.
Gel Coating: $$$
This boat is old, it has many holes we have to fill up with gel coat, then sand and polish/wax to get it shiny and new.
However, ever since we have been docked at the harbor, the weather has been whimsical: windy, rainy and cold. So very difficult to do any work outdoors.
We are waiting for several days of weather without rain to start the gel coat work.
We finally didn't have time while being berthed at Narbonne-Plage for a month... We'll do that later as we go from harbor to harbor.
This boat is old, it has many holes we have to fill up with gel coat, then sand and polish/wax to get it shiny and new.
However, ever since we have been docked at the harbor, the weather has been whimsical: windy, rainy and cold. So very difficult to do any work outdoors.
We are waiting for several days of weather without rain to start the gel coat work.
We finally didn't have time while being berthed at Narbonne-Plage for a month... We'll do that later as we go from harbor to harbor.
Cockpit table:
Nico thinks this table is taking too much space and is not practical enough.
We have a smaller version, but it's too small.
So he wants to build another one that is foldable and has some dedicated spot to put on drinkware.
The only issue is that the table is stuck...
So it took a while to remove it entirely.
Nico thinks this table is taking too much space and is not practical enough.
We have a smaller version, but it's too small.
So he wants to build another one that is foldable and has some dedicated spot to put on drinkware.
The only issue is that the table is stuck...
So it took a while to remove it entirely.
Nico's dad will build the table top according to Nico's design.
So I'll update this page later on.
So I'll update this page later on.
Charging ports:
Nico wants to add charging ports in strategic parts of the boat so that we can charge our phones or work on our computers. There will be a total of 7 ports along with meters of electric cables and circuit breaker.
This costs 155 euros.
Nico wants to add charging ports in strategic parts of the boat so that we can charge our phones or work on our computers. There will be a total of 7 ports along with meters of electric cables and circuit breaker.
This costs 155 euros.
Standing rigging:
The owner never changed them, so it's probably as old as the boat. We need to do that at some point.
Maybe before the summer. I would cost 8.5k euros, we are getting quotations.
We finally found Seanergie Nautic in Hyeres to make it for us for 6085 euros.The owner never changed them, so it's probably as old as the boat. We need to do that at some point.
Maybe before the summer. I would cost 8.5k euros, we are getting quotations.
Very good services, we were happy from quotation to finish.
However we have to do a lot of the preparation ourselves to save on costs, like removing all 3 sails and the boom.
Nico also did the electricity and the isolation of the mast.
It did save us almost 500 euros.
The total cost was finally 4574.27 euros, and it took 4 days.
If you do those types of a maintenance, make sure you do it outside of peak season, which is the month of May and June. It's hard to to get a spot right away.
Nico also did the electricity and the isolation of the mast.
It did save us almost 500 euros.
The total cost was finally 4574.27 euros, and it took 4 days.
If you do those types of a maintenance, make sure you do it outside of peak season, which is the month of May and June. It's hard to to get a spot right away.
Solar Panels:
We had 2x100W solar panels and one of them wasnt working.
So we got one big 500W to replace those 2. And we got a bi-facial one.
So we got one big 500W to replace those 2. And we got a bi-facial one.
It did cost 120 euros. You can find it at less than 100 euros on the net.
We got a regulator for it, 180 euros.
Electric cables, screws, aluminum bars and other parts to secure it. 120 euros more or less (rather more).
We got a regulator for it, 180 euros.
Electric cables, screws, aluminum bars and other parts to secure it. 120 euros more or less (rather more).
Nico wants to add two stainless-steel metal bars to support the arch to make sure everything is sturdy.
Haven't found it yet.
Haven't found it yet.
Total so far for the solar panels amounts to 420 euros.
Batteries:
We also changed our 4 batteries. When you trade the old ones, you can get money back or a % discount back. In our case it was 5%.
We paid 600 euros for those. Not the best quality, but it'll do for the sabbatical.
We paid 600 euros for those. Not the best quality, but it'll do for the sabbatical.
Anemometer:
We changed it for 821 euros. Bought it at the Uship shipchandler.
We changed it for 821 euros. Bought it at the Uship shipchandler.
Windlass:
The contactor needed to be changed for the windlass, we replaced it for 38.39 euros
The contactor needed to be changed for the windlass, we replaced it for 38.39 euros
Miniplex:
Nico wanted all data and information to be centralized on his ipad, so he bought a Miniplex 3Wi-N2K for 494 euros.
Water filter:
Nico installed a new water filter to filter the water from the tank.
It costed 165 euros (UV lamp, filter and tap)
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