Life On Sail

 Very unusual stopover as we had to head back to Paris for personal reasons.  It was a great but short occasion for us to meet up with family and friends.  We only stayed for 2 full days. 

      This morning, heavy clouds loomed over the stunning Langoustier Bay. After two nights moored in this tranquil spot—our longest mooring yet!—we hit an unexpected snag: one of our batteries was dead, and the remaining three were completely drained. Not exactly ideal when you need electricity to haul up the anchor! Nico spent the morning tinkering with the solar panels and batteries, determined to get us powered up. After some effort, we managed to scrape together just enough juice to lift the anchor and set sail for the next marina in Hyères. Unfortunately, the marina could only offer us a docking spot for two nights. With a quick trip back to Paris on the horizon, we were hoping for a longer stay to sort things out. The journey to Hyères was calm, just the way I like it. We started off battling rain and gusty winds, but halfway through, the wind died down completely. With no breeze to carry us, we fired up the engine to make sure we’d reach the marina before the harb...

  Leaving Toulon As we prepared to depart Toulon harbor, our excitement for the day’s sail was already buzzing. The Mediterranean sparkled under the morning sun, and our boat was ready to glide through the waves. Just as we were about to exit the main channel, a group of military personnel approached us in a small patrol boat, their expressions friendly but firm. They directed us to divert to a smaller, secondary exit from the harbor. The reason? A maritime giant was making its grand return. Incredible Encounter! The Charles de Gaulle, France’s iconic nuclear-powered aircraft carrier, was steaming back to Toulon after a five-month deployment in the Pacific. This 42,500-ton behemoth, one of the most powerful warships in the world, was an awe-inspiring sight. As we maneuvered to the smaller exit, we caught glimpses of its massive silhouette on the horizon, its deck bustling with activity. For a brief moment, we shared the waters with this floating fortress—an unforgettable encounter ...

Automatic Inflatable Lifejacket I recently got my hands on the Tribord LJ150N Inflatable Life Jacket with Harness from Decathlon, and I’m thrilled to share why it’s a game-changer for our adventures on the water!  This grey adult life jacket, 150N, priced at just €79.99 perfect for coastal navigation.  Its automatic inflation gives me peace of mind during stormy trips, and the integrated harness keeps me secure, especially when navigating choppy waters. The ergonomic design is super lightweight and comfy, letting me move freely while feeling protected.  Check it out at Decathlon and sail with confidence!   Sailing Jackets,  We both got those Helly Hansen offshore jackets for windy and cold weather.  I took the S size and thought it was a bit big and stiff, but I guess that's what's needed to cover you up entirely, even if you already have a jacket under.  Those are pretty expensive, so buy them when there are sails.  We bought them at 2...

    We covered 20 nautical miles in just 4 hours, arriving an hour earlier than planned, thanks to a generous tailwind that pushed us along. Our average speed settled at a steady 5 knots, which felt just right for the journey. The wind, however, had other plans. At times, it kicked up so fiercely that we had to furl the mainsail and rely solely on the genoa to keep things manageable. It was a bit of a wild ride, and for some reason, our focus was off. Maybe it was the gusts rattling our nerves or just one of those off days, but we weren’t our usual sharp selves. Case in point: I forgot to stow the fenders after departure, something I *always* do. The wind was relentless, and it took a toll—one of the fender lines wore through completely, and we lost one, maybe two fenders to the sea. Another line is fraying badly, hanging on by a thread. I’d bet we’ll forget to replace it before the next trip, too, knowing how these things slip our minds. Despite the chaos, there’s something e...

With perfect weather and just the right wind at our backs, we set sail for Bandol the 4th largest yatching marina in the Mediterranean, a charming coastal town only 8 nautical miles from our starting point. The short distance promised a quick and enjoyable trip, and the Mediterranean sparkled under a clear sky, inviting us to savor every moment on the water. For this leg, we opted to hoist only the genoa, the boat’s large foresail, which caught the breeze beautifully. We hit a thrilling peak speed of 8 knots, slicing through the gentle waves with ease. The entire journey took just 1 hour and 26 minutes, a testament to the ideal conditions and our crew’s growing confidence. It was one of those sails where everything felt effortless, and the sea seemed to be on our side. Nico’s dad joined us for the trip, his enthusiasm for sailing as infectious as ever. Meanwhile, Nico’s mom, still wary of the sea after our choppy lunch in the creek, chose to stay behind at their camper van in La Ciotat...

After some hesitation, Nico’s mom decided to join us for a short trip to Île Verte, persuaded by the calm sea and the island’s proximity to La Ciotat’s harbor. Just a stone’s throw across the water, Île Verte seemed like the perfect spot for a relaxed outing, especially for someone less keen on sailing. With spirits high, we set off, anticipating a pleasant day of exploration. Unfortunately, everything that could go wrong did go wrong. Our plan was to approach Île Verte, a small, pine-covered island known for its scenic trails and secluded coves, and moor nearby. From there, we’d take the dinghy ashore for a short hike to enjoy the island’s natural beauty. But as we neared the island and dropped anchor, our troubles began. Moments after mooring, a voice boomed over a loudspeaker from a nearby patrol boat. The official informed us that mooring was prohibited in that area due to underwater cables. They urged us to check our navigation map.  Confident in our positioning, we double-che...

Before arriving in La Ciotat, we set sail for one of the stunning Calanques along the Mediterranean coast, as the journey was a short and scenic cruise. The Calanques, dramatic limestone cliffs plunging into turquoise waters, are a hallmark of this region between Marseille and Cassis, offering sheltered coves perfect for boating and exploration. Nico’s dad joined us for the trip, his enthusiasm for sailing evident in his wide grin as he took the helm. He’s a true sea lover, unlike Nico’s mom, who prefers the comforts of solid ground.  She opted to stay back in La Ciotat, likely enjoying the charming seaside town’s markets or a leisurely coffee at a café along the harbor. Our first stop was a breathtaking Calanque, its secluded creek providing calm waters and a serene backdrop for lunch.  While anchored there, we took the opportunity to perform the "Macoui" ceremony, a lighthearted yet meaningful tradition to mark the renaming of our boat. According to maritime folklore, renam...

  We left the calanques at 10 am, it wasn't windy at first as we were navigating between islands. When we left those natural protections, we were left bare against the wind. Unfortunately it wasn't the right wind so we had to tack at the beginning. H was at the helm and is quite good at it. (video above) Unfortunately he is unwell with fever so he slept most of the way and so did I. It was quite rough. 5h20 to get to Cassis. The boys saw another sailboat on the way and were racing them. It was teaching sailboat. We caught up but then were quickly left out. Nico's parents joined us at Cassis. Bring the usual load of food and the specially made table for the cockpit. It's raining today. So we didn't go out at all. H being sick we are trying not to be as adventurous as yesterday.

A Family Reunion in Marseille and a Sail to Frioul Our next adventure began in Marseille, where we picked up our son at the bustling Marseille-Saint-Charles train station. His arrival brought a fresh wave of excitement to the crew, and we couldn’t wait to show him the vibrant city before continuing our journey. With a few hours to spare, we strolled through the iconic Vieux Port, Marseille’s historic heart, where fishing boats bobbed alongside sleek yachts. We marveled at the imposing Fort Saint-Jean, its ancient stone walls guarding the harbor’s entrance, and soaked in the lively atmosphere of street performers and seafood vendors. It was the perfect way to kick off our family reunion. From the Vieux Port, we set sail for the Frioul Archipelago, a cluster of rugged islands just a short distance offshore. The journey took about two hours, though we could have made it faster. Nico, eager to share his love of sailing with his son, let him take the wheel for much of the trip, guiding him ...

 We left our first mooring at 10 in the morning.   Yesterday was windless, but today we had 14-knot winds. We had to tack for the first few hours, but I didn’t feel too seasick despite reaching 9 knots in a choppy sea. Tacking is still a work in progress for me—I’m not quite nailing the rhythm yet, but I’m getting better with each maneuver. Nico and his dad, ever patient, offered pointers as we worked together to keep the boat on course. Their encouragement, paired with the thrill of harnessing the wind, made the challenging sail feel rewarding. We covered 30 nautical miles at an average cruising speed of 4.4 knots, arriving in Marseille after a six-hour journey. Originally, we hadn’t planned to reach Marseille until Sunday, when we were set to pick up our son at the train station. Our intention was to moor at a quieter marina closer to our starting point, but every nearby dock was fully booked. With no other options, we pressed on to Marseille’s bustling Vieux Port, a decisio...

 We left Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer early, before sunrise, knowing it would be a long journey.  With no wind and a greater distance to cover, we relied on the engine most of the time. The sea was so calm that we could see our reflection as we glided across its glassy surface. We spotted three dolphins. The trip was long but peaceful. Nico worked on some boat repairs and did a bit of cleaning. I played with my 360 camera and read. Moitessier’s sailing story is captivating, and I’m really enjoying it. I practiced some maneuvers today, including furling the sails. I made hot chocolate while we were cruising—a first! We also moored successfully for the first time. There was absolutely no one at this creek. It's not the most beautiful one, on the side were towering industrial structures.  But we felt alone in the world.  Nico set an alarm on the ipad for the mooring, in case we we would drift during the night.  He woke up during the night several times... Nothing happe...

 We had planned to sail to Aigues-Mortes today and moor in a nearby creek, but the weather was poor, with some rain. Instead, we decided to head closer to Marseille by the end of the week. Given the weather, we opted for a longer sail of 5 hours to reach Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, covering 23 nautical miles at an average cruising speed of 4.5 knots. We arrived at 6:30 PM and explored the town before dinner. The next day we went for a e-scooter ride and a horse ride, a must in Camargue to see wild bulls and flamingos. 

 We were supposed to leave at 9 am sharp.  Christelle was ready. But at the last minute, after checking the weather forecast, we decided to leave at 1 pm in order to catch a better wind.  We went to visit the nearby island of Maguelone and its church and vineyards.  A little summary of our stay at Palavas and Maguelone: We went back to the boat for a sandwich and left straight away for our next destination.  We left Palavas after lunch, waiting for the wind to turn. And it turned out perfect. We cruised at 4.4 knots with a perfect tailwind that allowed us to go in a straight line to Port Camargue which is the largest marina in Europe. The sailing time is 2 hours which felt too short for Chrystelle who sailed with us today. ! When we arrived Port Camargue, Cédric also came to say hello! It was really great to have people with us today!!! Felt like a short day! And despite Port Camargue being the biggest marina in Europe with its 5000 berths, we didn't stay more...

We spent a short day in Montpellier after exploring Levan Park in Palavas. A brief summary follows: It was fantastic to roam around on e-scooters. We wouldn’t have seen so many sights in such a short time without them. We visited the historic city center, but everything was closed on Monday—restaurants, museums, you name it. On our way back to Palavas, we met with Christelle. She’s joining us for our next sailing trip, while Didier follows by car.    

Our best sailing experience so far was the trip to Palavas-les-Flots. We left Sète in the morning, just as we did for the Cap d’Agde to Sète leg, covering 15 nautical miles. Unlike the 4-hour-30-minute journey last time, we had a beautiful tailwind, so we didn’t need to tack (which spared me some trouble).  It took only 2 hours and 46 minutes to arrive. However, when we got there, the harbor master didn’t respond to our VHF call, so we weren’t sure where to moor. We docked at a jetty that was too short, and it took 3–4 attempts to park properly. Eventually, we were assigned a spot, but it was far too big. We tried the first spot, but the mooring lines weren’t long enough to secure the boat. Then we moved to a second spot and finally managed to moor. It was a frustrating process. Once settled, we took the scooters out and explored the charming resort of Palavas. It was crowded since it was a sunny Sunday. We also visited the laundromat. It was a short day.    

We added an impromptu extra day in Sète. It would’ve been nice to know earlier so I could’ve planned Nico’s birthday properly, but it was far too last-minute. As a result, all the Michelin-starred restaurants were fully booked, especially on a Saturday. Nico spent the morning 12 meters up on the mast, working to fix the anemometer and the mooring light. After his birthday treat, we headed to the chandlery. We went from one boat to another—yes, we had his birthday lunch on a péniche! In the afternoon, Nico returned to the mast to fix the mooring light before we moored for the first time. Before heading back to the boat, we made sure to buy a Frescati de Sète, a local cake unique to the area. I’d never heard of it before—it’s made with Italian meringue and a rum-raisin biscuit. Here is a little summary of our stay in Sète:    

  We lost all the data from this navigation!! We left Cap d'Agde this morning at 9:45. It was supposed to be 12 nautical miles from Cap d'Agde to Sète, a trip of about 3 hours and 15 minutes. In the end, it took us 5 hours and 30 minutes—probably closer to 30 nautical miles because we were tacking the whole way. I think we averaged around 4 knots, peaking at 7 knots when Nico was at the helm. Preparation I prepared myself better this time. I put on more clothes, wore my seasickness bands, ate a proper breakfast, and layered up even more. But I was still cold! I placed a bucket in the cockpit in case I needed to vomit—I don’t want to clean up a mess on the deck at the end of every trip. In the bucket, I put a bottle of water and two apples, which I ate as soon as I felt nauseous. The water was there in case I threw up again. How did it go? The weather was cloudy, but the sea was very calm, so nothing fell over in the saloon. I didn’t get too sick this time—no vomiting!...

 There are so many things we need to prep within 1 month before we leave our berth.  And it's either aesthetic: cleaning up and polishing the boat inside out, or mechanic: a lot of fixing, upgrading and replacing broken elements.  Here is what we did and how much it did approximately cost:  Aesthetic Clean-up:  We cleaned up the boat from the ground up. Starting inside, all wood panels, all rooms, bathrooms, all equipments like the oven, stove and microwave and of course under all the hatches. And there are many! We also cleaned up the trash bin.  I used a combination of wet wipes (I know it's not eco-friendly but it is so efficient), black soap and CIF cream.  Removing stickers: This boat is covered with Beneteau stickers and other broker stickers.  I decided to remove what was faded.  We first tried with the hair dryer, melting the glue, and using a plastic card to scrape it off. But it took forever.  I then changed to using the scrap...